Beginner’s Guide to Cycling

Posted on May 20, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera

Beginner’s Guide to Cycling

I’d like to note that I’m not nearly as qualified to write this guide as I was to write the running guide. I’m a very early beginner in cycling, and what I’m posting here is just the basics, from what I’ve learned from my research (websites, books, and talking to experts) and from my limited experiences so far. I basically just want to share what I’ve learned so far, so that it might help others who want to get started.

Also, I’d like to note that this guide applies only to road cycling, not mountain biking, as I haven’t hit the trails yet. Last, please add to this guide with your own tips and experiences in the comments!

Two Most Important Tips
There are a lot of important tips here in this guide, and in the links I provided, but here are the most important two.

  1. Start slow. There’s no need to kill yourself when you start. Even if you’re already in good shape, cycling uses different muscles than other exercises, and your body will need time to get used to the new types of stress. Start out nice and easy, enjoy yourself, and progress gradually. Just do 2-3 miles at first, and do them nice and slow. Have fun!
  2. Be safe. More than most sports, cycling can be very dangerous, especially if you’re on the roads with all the crazy drivers out there. In my area, two cyclists were hit in recent months (one died), so I take extra precautions. Ride during the daylight hours, follow traffic laws, always yield the right of way, wear bright colors and reflectors, wear a helmet. More safety tips below.

The Bike
What’s the best bike to get for cycling? Heck if I know. I’m just a beginner. I suggest that you start with any old bike you can get your hands on. Really. If you’ve got one in your garage, or you know someone who has one that’s not being used, just spray some WD-40 on the rusty parts, inflate the tire and make sure there are no leaks, and give it a go. You don’t need anything fancy to start with.

The really nice bikes are optimal, of course, but they are also well over $1,000 (some are well over twice that), and they aren’t necessary to get into the sport and enjoy it. Once you get into it, and are sure you’ll be doing it for the long term, look into a better bike.

The nice road bikes are lighter, with strong frames, thin tires (for less friction), with a whole host of other nice features to make riding fast and easy. However, I use an old mountain bike, and I still love riding.

What’s most important is that the bike fits you. The bike should fit your height (from ground to crotch), as well as the distance from the seat to the handle. I’m not an expert at this — it’s best to go to a good bike shop to get fitted.

Equipment
Cycling, more than many other sports, is equipment-centric. I am of the minimalist school – you don’t need a host of fancy gear to get started. Add those later.

What’s the minimum gear needed? Here’s my list:

  • Helmet. Don’t ever ride without one. It can mean the difference between a bad headache and being a vegetable. Make sure it fits well (see this guide for tips on that, along with other equipment needed to get started).
  • Water bottle. Get one with a cage that attaches to your bike. Regular bottles don’t fit in this cage, btw. An alternative is a hydration backpack. You really only need hydration tools once you start cycling beyond an hour, but it’s good to have just in case.
  • Pump. A portable pump that you attach to the bike is necessary, in case you get a flat or a slow leak. You don’t want to be walking your bike back home. A floor pump is good to have at home, too, for easier pumping, but isn’t absolutely necessary.
  • Repair kit. A simple repair kit would include a patch kit, a spare inner tube, 2 tire levers, a multi-tool for bikes, all in a small bag that attaches to the bike.

Other stuff you could get later:

  • Gloves. I actually have a pair of these, and you could consider them essential. They absorb shock from the handles (cycling gloves are padded), but more importantly, if you crash, your palms are protected.
  • Bike computer. This attaches to the bike (no, they don’t have it in Linux or Mac flavors) and tells you how far you’ve gone, how fast you’re going, your RPMs, and all other kinds of good info. Very useful, but not absolutely necessary. I don’t have one at this point, but it’s on my to-buy list.
  • Gel-padded seat. For beginners, riding on a hard cycling seat can be very uncomfortable. This gel padding has saved me a bit of pain. Experienced riders tell me that you get used to it after awhile, and I have, to some degree.
  • Glasses. To some, these are a must. I haven’t gotten them yet, but they block bugs and other debris from hitting you in the eyes. Hasn’t been a problem for me yet, but then I don’t go that fast!
  • Shoes/pedals. The most efficient way of peddling is if you are using your up-stroke as well, not just your down-stroke (pulling the pedals up and pushing them down). To do this, of course, you either need cage pedals to put your shoes in, or the kind of pedals that lock into your cycling shoes. You’d also need special shoes for that, of course. I plan to get these some time, but haven’t gotten to it yet.
  • Lights. These are a must if you ride when it begins to get dark. I don’t do that out of safety concerns.
  • Racks. Important if you want to transport anything. There are all kinds of racks and panniers (cycling bags). Awesome for touring or commuting.

There are, of course, a ton of other equipment out there. But you don’t need them in the beginning.

The Clothing
We’ve all seen the tight and bright clothing that the pros wear. I’m sorry to report that I’ve gone minimalist here as well — I just wear my running shorts and shirt and shoes. That’s really all you need to start off.

However, if you begin to get serious about cycling, you should consider some good clothing. Good cycling clothing is thin, so you don’t get too hot, flexible for comfort, with special material that “wicks away” sweat (basically, it doesn’t soak it up and chafe your skin like cotton does). It’s also tight, so the wind doesn’t flap your clothing all around and irritate the hell out of you. And the bright colors serve a purpose as well: they make you visible to those crazy drivers!

Cold weather: I don’t live in cold weather, but many of you do — in that case, thin cycling wear is good, but layer it on. If you get hot, you can always take off a layer.
Safety
Always be safe on the road. Do not be daring, do not insist on the right of way, do not break traffic laws (yes, you have to follow them too), and always be as visible as possible. If you know the common causes of accidents, you can look out for them:

  • Opening car doors. This is a common one — someone opens their car door, right into your path, and you don’t have time to swerve. Slam! The only thing to say is to be on the lookout for any doors that are about to open, and don’t ride too close to parked cars.
  • Sideswiped. If you right on the outermost edge of the road, as many cyclists do, cars will be tempted to try to pass you in the same lane. As this is a tight fit, this could result in you being hit. It’s safest to take the center of the lane, even if that doesn’t seem as safe, until you can safely move to the shoulder to let cars pass if necessary. You have just as much a right to that lane as the cars do.
  • Intersections. If you are making a left turn across an intersection, be very careful. You might think that the oncoming traffic, or the cross traffic from either side, will see you, but you could be wrong. Be very sure you are seen by all drivers. Right turns can also be dangerous if the traffic going into that lane doesn’t see you — or if the driver behind you also making a right turn doesn’t see you, as he is busy looking to his left.

Safety is too large a topic to be covered here. Try this guide or this one for more.

Shifting Gears
This is a topic that might seem simple, but for many true beginners, it can be confusing and a little scary. But with a little practice, it’s actually pretty easy. Here’s what you need to know:

  • Three front gears. There are usually three gears in the front — the large, medium and small. There is one shifting mechanism at the handlebars for switching between these gears (marked 1, 2 and 3). The large one is for when the pedaling is the easiest, and can go the fastest. Good for downhills and flats. The small one is for hills, and takes a lot of pedaling to go the same distance as the other two, but is much easier to turn. The middle is between them, and is probably going to be used most often (at least by us beginners).
  • Seven back gears. These also go from small to largest, and have a shifting mechanism for switching between them (1-7). I usually pair the small front gear with the largest three back gears (1-3), the medium front gear with the middle back gears (3-5), and the large front gear with the smallest back gears (5-7).
  • Basic premise. Basically, you want to pedal using the largest front gear with the smallest back gear that you can handle while still pedaling at a high cadence (pedaling fast). That means that if you can shift to a larger front gear while still pedaling at a high cadence, you should. But if it begins to get too tough for you to pedal at a high cadence, shift down to a smaller front gear (or larger back gear or both). This will take a little practice, but it’s not hard. And as you get better at cycling, you will be able to pedal faster with the harder gears, over time.

There’s more to gears and shifting, though. Read this guide for more.

Braking
Obviously this is a pretty important area. It’s a major safety skill that takes a little practice to learn. A few tips:

  • Down hills. The temptation going down hills, to limit your speed and make sure you don’t get out of control, is to brake the whole way down. It’s recommended that you don’t do this, though — the brake pad could burn out. You want to do it in spurts.
  • Front brake. Many beginners use both brakes simultaneously to brake. But more experienced cyclists (and I’m not one yet) use the front brake most of the time. If you practice using the front brake, you will lose the fear of flipping over the front wheel.
  • Rear brake. This is good for certain situations, especially if it’s slippery or your front tire blows out.

This is a great guide for braking.

Hills
For beginning cyclists, hills can be a big challenge. Experienced cyclists actually have no problems with hills — they know how to shift, to brake, to pace themselves, and they have gotten stronger on hills with practice. There are two areas with hills to be concerned with:

  • Uphills. Cycling uphill isn’t that hard if you shift to the right gears. It took me a little while to learn this. What I like to do is build up some speed going into a hill, shifting to a bigger front gear and getting some momentum. This will carry me a little ways up the hill. As the pedaling becomes more difficult, I gradually shift to easier gears until I’m on the smallest front gear and largest back gear. If I’m lucky, I don’t get to that point. It’s also good to learn to pace yourself — don’t pump the pedals too hard early on in a long hill, or you’ll tire out.
  • Downhills. Steep downhills can be scary for us beginners because of the speed. I recommend slowing yourself down with intermittent braking. If the downhill isn’t too steep, I recommend shifting to your big front gear and smallest back gear — you can really build up some speed that will carry you when you hit the flat or the next hill.

Flat Tires
They happen to everyone. Know how to fix them, and be sure to have a pump and a spare inner tube. You don’t want to be walking the bike home. It’s really not that hard. See this guide and this one for more.

Commute to Work
One of my goals is to regularly commute to work. While I’ve done it a number of times now, I’m still working on this one. It saves money on gas, helps the environment, and gets your exercise in all at once. Does it get any better?

The main issues for commuting to work mostly revolve around being clean with clean clothes. I give my tips on bike commuting here, but for me, the key has been to bring clothes to work when I drive or carpool to work, and then to shower at work (this is a great option if you’re lucky enough to have it). Also try this guide on bike commuting and this one for a lot more info.

Cycling Forums
If you’re just getting into cycling, a great way to learn more, and to motivate yourself, is to join a cycling forum (off-line cycling groups are great too). Here are a few to get you started:

Cycling Links
There are a ton of sites on cycling out there. Here are just a few to get you started:

Cycling Books
Again, there are a ton of them. Here are a few I recommend:

Also see:

Posted in Health and wellness | Leave a comment

How to turn your photo into movie-like effect using Photoshop?

Posted on May 20, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera

How to turn your photo into movie-like effect using Photoshop?



What you need to have: Adobe Photoshop
What you will learn: colour mood adjustments + depth of field effect + film effect
PS: ⌘ key for Mac users / CTRL key for Windows users

Colour mood adjustments

1. Adjust the Hue/Saturation: ⌘U/CTRL-U

2. Adjust the brightness and contrast: Menu > Image > Adjustments > Exposure…

Depth of field effect

3. Duplicate current active layer by dragging it to the ‘create a new layer’ button located at the bottom of Layer window.

4. Apply lens blur on the new layer on top: Menu > Filter > Blur > Lens Blur…
Adjust according to your own preference.

5. Click on the ‘add layer mask’ button at the bottom of Layer window. Then click and select the ‘Layer mask thumbnail’ (the white rectangle).

6. Select brush tool(b), set the master diameter to 400px. Then choose the focus point in the photo and click on it.

Film effect

7. Create a new layer by clicking the ‘create a new layer’ button located at the bottom of Layer window.

8. Fill the new layer with black colour: reset colour to default black & white (d), switch black colour to background (x), fill the layer (⌘-del/CTRL-backspace)

9. Set the opacity of the black layer to 70% by pressing ‘7′

10. Use erase tool(e), set the master diameter to 400px. Then start erase the center of the photo.

11. Flatten the image: Menu > Layer > Flatten Image and add noise: Menu > Filter > Noise > Add Noise…

Cinemascope (optional)

12. Add black bars on top and bottom of photo and it’s done!
Use Rectangular Marquee Tool(m) to select (drag) upper part of photo, hold the shift key and select the bottom part, fill with black colour (⌘-del/CTRL-backspace)


You can also add an extra step to twist the colour into this mood by using ‘Color Balance’(⌘B/CTRL-B). Drag the slider towards cyan and blue for Shadows, Midtones & Highlights.

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Funny Exit Interview

Posted on May 20, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera

Posted in Humour | Leave a comment

How to boot a Vista system from a locally stored WIM file

Posted on May 13, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera

How to boot a Vista system from a locally stored WIM file

The Windows AIK provides excellent opportunities to create custom Windows PE based images. Those images are provided as WIM files and can be easily converted to ISO files to be burned on CD or DVD. WIM files can also be used to boot from the network using Windows Deployment Services. The Microsoft site also provides procedures to boot a WIM file from USB drive or a clean local hard drive. Unfortunately I was not able to find a complete description how to place a WIM boot image on the local hard disk and provide it as alternative boot option in the Vista boot Menu.

After combining various publications about the subject I managed to extract the procedure to add an option to the boot menu and boot a computer from the WIM file C:\Sources\boot.wim on the local hard drive:

  1. Copy boot\boot.sdi from the Windows Vista installation DVD to C:\boot (By default this folder is hidden in Windows Explorer)
  2. Use the following set of commands to create a ramdiskoptions object in the BCD store. The string "{ramdiskoptions}" is the well-known name for the object’s GUID.

    bcdedit /create {ramdiskoptions} /d "Ramdisk options"

    bcdedit /set {ramdiskoptions} ramdisksdidevice partition=c:

    bcdedit /set {ramdiskoptions} ramdisksdipath \boot\boot.sdi

       

  3. Create a new boot entry.

    bcdedit -create /d "Windows PE boot" /application OSLOADER

       

  4. Step 3 returns the GUID that is associated with the newly created boot entry. It is referred to as NewGUID in the remaining examples. Run the following set of commands to configure the boot entry.

       

    bcdedit /set {NewGUID} device ramdisk=[c:]\sources\boot.wim,{ramdiskoptions}

    bcdedit /set {NewGUID} path \windows\system32\boot\winload.exe

    bcdedit /set {NewGUID} osdevice ramdisk=[c:]\sources\boot.wim,{ramdiskoptions}

    bcdedit /set {NewGUID} systemroot \windows

    bcdedit /set {NewGUID} winpe yes

    bcdedit /set {NewGUID} detecthal yes

    bcdedit /displayorder {NewGUID} /addlast

  Now when you boot the system, an extra boot option "Windows PE boot" is presented and can be used to boot from c:\sources\boot.wim

Posted in Computers and Internet | Leave a comment

Replace Windows Explorer with Xplorer2

Posted on May 10, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera

Replace Windows Explorer with Xplorer2

Let’s face it: for advanced file manipulation, Windows File Explorer stinks. But like Firefox is a must-have replacement for Internet Explorer, a file manager called Xplorer2 blows Windows Explorer out of the water for anyone who browses multiple folders, copies, pastes, moves and searches the PC filesystem frequently.

Using Xplorer2’s tabbed, dual pane interface, keyboard shortcuts and killer advanced features, you’re in total control of your PC’s files. Let’s take a look.

Download and install Xplorer2

The "lite" version of Xplorer2 has a few features disabled, but it’s far from limited; it’s free for personal or academic use. A license for the pro version costs a reasonable $30, and there’s a full 30-day trial to check out pro features. For the purposes of this article, we’ll stick to the free Xplorer Lite (where locked "pro" features are denoted by a "[P]" in the menus.)

Download Xplorer2 Lite from here and launch it. The self-contained program is even thumb drive-friendly.

Triple threat interface

First thing you’ll notice off the bat is that Xplorer2 displays file listings from two folders at once in one window. This makes a lot of sense, since a lot of the time you’re copy or moving files between folders. Also, in the far left pane, there’s an easy-to-navigate directory tree of your computer, as shown (click to enlarge).

To quickly switch between the two open folder panes, hit the Tab key. The active pane will have a white background, the inactive will be in beige. To turn on or off the directory tree pane, from the View menu, check or uncheck "Show Tree."

Tabbed Exploring

If the dual pane view wasn’t enough, you can also open up sets of folders you work with frequently in tabs. From the File menu, choose "New Tab" or simply hit Ctrl+Ins to open a new tab. Move between tabs with your keyboard with Ctrl+Shift+Left/Right arrow.

You can even rename a tab for easy visual reference. Just right-click on it and choose rename.

Bookmark folders and files

Much like Firefox, in Xplorer2 you can bookmark folders and assign keywords to open them quickly. To add a folder you frequent to your bookmarks, from the Bookmarks menu choose "Add Current." To organize your bookmarks, hit the "Organize" Bookmarks menu item, which will bring up something like this:

To bookmark a file, add its name to the end of the bookmark path. Then, when the bookmark is chosen, the folder will open with that particular file selected. (For instance, when I hit my "todo" bookmark, todo.txt is selected and I can hit Enter to open it.)

FTP folders

The eagle-eyed will notice an FTP server in my bookmarks, pictured above. You can open folders on a remote server via FTP in Xplorer2, which makes copying files back and forth from your web or home server inside the tabbed interface a snap.

Security alert: Xplorer2 only supports plain FTP (not encrypted), and you’re required to put your password in the bookmark itself. The format is ftp://you:password@yourserver.com. This isn’t the most secure way to FTP, so proceed with caution.

Filter your files

Xplorer2 makes it dead easy to work with sets of files. You can use a filter to select all the files that start with G or end in .png. Simply type your filter into Xplorer2’s address bar (like "*.txt") or from the Mark menu, choose "Select Group." From there you can copy, move or otherwise manipulate the set of files.

Keyboard shortcuts

Xplorer2 has a very extensive set of mature keyboard shortcuts. First, it’s got incremental search and select for a directory listing. Just type the first few letters of a file or folder name and Xplorer2 will instantly move down and select it in the list. Hold down the shift key to do incremental search by file extension (like Shift+tx will take you to the first .txt file in the list.)

To copy files between open folders, use F5. To navigate to a particular drive letter, use Ctrl+Shift+Letter (like Ctrl+Shift+C) to go the drive’s root.

Lifehacker reader Ludwig summarized his favorite Xplorer2 keyboard shortcuts in a grid that makes a nice cheat sheet.

Split and merge files

If you’ve got a multi-gigabyte file – like a video or disk image – you want to transport on a series of smaller capacity CD-R’s or thumb drives, Xplorer2 can split the file into small parts and reassemble them later. To do so, from the Actions menu choose "Split" and select the file part sizes. To put the file back together, select all the parts (make sure they’re sorted by name so they’re in the right join order!) and from the Actions menu, choose Join.

RTFM

We’ve barely scratched the surface of what Xplorer2 can do here, so if you’re looking for ways to streamline common file manipulation actions you have to do on a regular basis, be sure to give the Xplorer2 manual a look-see, which is available as a separate download.

Alternatives to Xplorer2

Finally, Xplorer2 might not be everyone’s cup of tea. Lifehacker readers have also recommended UltraExplorer, TotalCommander and CubicExplorer for replacing Windows Explorer

Posted in Computers and Internet | Leave a comment

Virtualisation – VMWARE Vi3

Posted on May 9, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera
 
Ultimate Link Guide
 
More to follow watch this space……
Posted in Computers and Internet | Leave a comment

Nice Cars

Posted on May 9, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera
 
2008 BMW M3 4.0L V8
 
 
Mitsuoka Galue Convertible
 
 
Lumma Design BMW M5 CLR 500 R-S
 
 
Abt Audi R8
 
 
Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Scientists look high in the sky for power

Posted on May 9, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera

 

Scientists look high in the sky for power

Jet stream could fill global energy needs, researchers say

Keay Davidson, Chronicle Science Writer

Monday, May 7, 2007

Scientists are eyeing the jet stream, an energy source that rages night and day, 365 days a year, just a few miles above our heads. If they can tap into its fierce winds, the world’s entire electrical needs could be met, they say.

The trick is figuring out how to harness the energy and get it down to the ground cost-effectively and safely.

Dozens of researchers in California and around the world believe huge kite-like wind-power generators could be the solution. As bizarre as that might seem, respected experts say the idea is sound enough to justify further investigation.

The jet stream typically blows from west to east 6 to 9 miles over the northern hemisphere at speeds up to 310 mph.

By lofting generators into the upper atmosphere, scientists theorize they could capture the power of the jet stream and transmit the electricity along cables back to Earth.

A wind machine, floated into such a monstrous force, would transmit electricity on aluminum or copper cables — or through invisible microwave beams — down to power grids, where it would be distributed to homes and businesses. Unlike ground-based wind generators, the high-altitude devices would be too high to be heard and barely visible against the blue sky.

"My calculations show that if we could just tap into 1 percent of the energy in high-altitude winds, it would be enough to power all civilization. The whole planet!" said atmospheric scientist Ken Caldeira at the Carnegie Institution’s Department of Global Ecology at Stanford University.

Research into high-altitude wind machines began in the 1980s. Bryan Roberts of the University of Technology in Sydney, Australia, was an early pioneer. Working with a team of researchers, he has field-tested a small, two-rotor prototype device tethered a short distance above the ground, successfully generating the electricity from low-level winds and transmitting it to Earth.

Creating a much larger, commercially viable system envisioned by scientists would take millions of dollars of research. Scientists need to figure out the structural materials that could stand up to the jet stream’s buffeting winds and find a way to adjust the generator’s position as the jet stream meanders back and forth across the sky.

Perhaps more vexing is determining the appropriate size and composition of the cable that would act like the string on a child’s kite to keep the machine from blowing away while it functions as an electrical transmission line.

Obstacles aside, some optimists think the jet stream could supply commercial electricity within a decade or two.

"My opinion is that 15 years from now, it’ll supply most of the power in the United States," said David Shepard, a veteran Silicon Valley entrepreneur from Ramona (San Diego County), who with Caldeira and other researchers in Australia and Canada is helping Roberts plan the helicopter-like version of a wind machine.

Others, like Caldeira, are more cautious. "In the 19th century, it took 25 years for oil to replace 1 percent of the coal market," Caldeira said. "The energy infrastructure tends to evolve slowly."

Engineering aside, there will be other hiccups to work out. For instance, there’s uncertainty about how much the machines or their cables would threaten birds.

"These wind turbines will fly far above most birds and would fill only a tiny fraction of the sky," Caldeira said. "Nevertheless, it may be important to find ways to warn off birds."

Another concern might be whether such technology would pose a danger to airplanes. For his part, Shepard isn’t worried. He points out that U.S. authorities have maintained a fleet of tethered balloons as part of drug-traffic-tracking operations along the U.S.-Mexican border. The Tethered Aerostat Radar System, which monitors aircraft, typically floats at an altitude of 15,000 feet and planes have never collided with them.

There is a remarkable variety of designs for high-flying wind machines, some of which resemble blimps or futuristic helicopters. Others look like Alexander Calder-style mobile sculptures. An early, 240-kilowatt prototype of a wind machine could weigh 1,140 pounds and have four rotors, each of which might be 35 feet wide from tip to tip and would spin up to five times per second.

At the moment, though, only small lab prototypes used in field tests have seen the light of day.

Rafe Pomerance, president of the nonprofit Climate Policy Center in Washington, thinks the jet stream-energy idea has merit. He held a private teleconference with Shepard and his colleagues on April 30 to find out more about it.

Afterward, Pomerance, a member of the U.S. negotiating team for the Kyoto treaty on global warming and a deputy assistant secretary of state for environment in the Clinton administration, told The Chronicle that high-altitude wind power should be investigated. He said he will be looking into whether his center should do anything to find research funds from federal agencies or private investors for Shepard’s team.

"We need to be investing in multiple options because global warming requires massive transformation of the global energy system," he said.

Bob Thresher, director of the U.S. National Wind Technology Center, a division of the Department of Energy, offered a more restrained view of the scientists’ plans.

"There’s a tremendous advantage in going up (toward the jet stream) because there’s much more energetic winds," he said. But if high-altitude wind generators are to succeed, "you have to be able do it very cheaply because the cost of (ground-based) wind energy has come down so dramatically, it’s becoming competitive with conventional sources."

In the March 1 issue of IEEE Transactions on Energy Conversion, a journal for electric power professionals, Roberts and six other researchers, including Caldeira and Shepard, described their plans for a prototype, 240-kilowatt flying electric generator costing "something in the ballpark of $5 million," according to Caldeira.

Some schemes are more modest.

In December, the Canadian government’s Sustainable Development Technology Corp. awarded a $950,000 grant to a startup firm, Magenn Power of Ottawa, to develop its proposed MARS — or Magenn Air Rotor System — wind generator. Held aloft by a helium balloon, it would fly only from 600 to 1,000 feet high and tap into the brisker winds closer to the ground, where trees and topography tend to muffle breezes. Backers hope it can generate 10 kilowatts, enough to support a village of 250 people with limited electricity needs.

"In India alone there are a million villages without power," said Mac Brown, Magenn’s chief executive officer. "Our target market is that village which might have 50 or 60 or 70 huts. All they want is one or two lights in a hut, an electric water pump, and a TV and VCR for the village school. And they want a refrigerator for medicine, for when the doctor stops in once a month."

Magenn just opened an office in San Francisco and is sending its representative, Tom Tansy, to Silicon Valley, where he hopes to find investors.

Is a high-altitude wind machine too good to be true? "It might be," Caldeira acknowledged. "But the way to find out is by trying. High-altitude winds are the largest concentrated source of renewable energy available on Earth. In the middle of the jet stream, the amount of power available per unit area can be 100 times more concentrated than the energy of sunlight on the surface of the Earth.

"So the idea that we’re not tapping into it — or at least investigating it — seems crazy to me. All the energy we need is flying by, 5 miles over our heads."

TO TRY AND CATCH THE WIND

The total energy contained in wind is 100 times the power used by everyone on the planet. If we could tap into just 1 percent of that energy, scientists say it still wouldn’t produce a major adverse effect on the environment. — LADDER MILL: A loop of kites attached to a cable would generate power as it moves continuously, pushed by high-altitude winds. — ROTOR KITE: A helicopter-like wind machine would use four or more rotors to generate electricity, up to 240 kilowatts. — ROTATING KITE: A wind generator held aloft by a helium balloon would fly 600 to 1,000 feet high, tapping into the brisker winds closer to the ground. It could generate about 10 kilowatts, enough to support a Third World village of 250 people. — TURNTABLE KITE: Wind-blown kites would drive a rotating turntable just as falling water turns a turbine in a hydroelectric plant.

Torrent of raw energy

The jet stream is made up of several large currents of high-speed air that rush eastward through the upper atmosphere. Six miles high, the winds have exceeded 300 mph.

Posted in Science | 1 Comment

Toyota FT-HS coming in 2009

Posted on May 9, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera
 
The June ’07 print edition of Automobile is full of juicy information, and one of the more significant bits of news appears in a sidebar on page 30. According to the magazine, Toyota has given the FT-HS hybrid sports car the green light, and the Calty-designed production version will make its debut in 2009. It’s being billed by Automobile as the spiritual successor to the late, lamented Supra — a position that’s hard to argue assuming you can look past the probable lack of an inline 6. Like the concept, the two-seat FT-HS will pair the company’s Hybrid Synergy Drive with an as-yet-undetermined gasoline engine (the concept utilized a 3.5-liter V6). Power and pricing aren’t discussed, but if the numbers thrown around when the concept was introduced — 400 horses and mid-level dollar amounts — are feasible, the thing should have plenty of takers.

[Source: Automobile, June 2007]

 

 
 
 
 
 
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61 Time Saving Tips: Keeping you, your co-workers, and your family on-time

Posted on February 24, 2007 by Yusuf Mangera

61 Time Saving Tips: Keeping you, your co-workers, and your family on-time

Want to know if you are a time saver or time killer? Answer these three questions:

  • Is your tight work schedule forcing you to forego your daily exercises?
  • Do your clients complain about delayed deliveries?
  • At tax-filing time, do you have to search for all the bills and important documents?

If you’ve answered yes to even one of the above questions, you probably aren’t managing your time wisely. The average person spends less than 7 hours of their day productively. The remaining time is typically wasted leaving us overwhelmed and stressed. So how do you squeeze an extra hour here and there? How do you achieve more in less time? Here are 61 time saving tips to help you get the most out of your day.

Time Saving Tips on the Job

1. You DO have enough time for everything. This is the first thing you need to realize. You feel pressed for time because you misuse it. Do you surf the web or watch TV just because you are bored? When you’re stretched for time, these activities will only worsen the situation. Turn off the TV, shut down the computer, and complete whatever task you are delaying.

2. Prioritize your tasks. Most people spend 80% of their time trying to complete 20% of their tasks. You could set aside ten minutes every day to plan your day’s activities.

3. Create and keep your "To Do List" handy. Don’t skip over the difficult items when checking to see what needs completing next.

4. When you plan your schedule for the day, ensure that you leave 20% of your day free. This allows for emergencies and interruptions.

5. Do large, time-consuming tasks scare intimidate you? Break them into smaller tasks and work on them one at a time.

6. Get it right the first time. Take your time to do a quality job. It may take more time to complete the task, but there is a lesser chance of errors. This way, you can avoid making time-consuming corrections.

7. Reward yourself. Whenever you complete important tasks within a stipulated period, give yourself a little treat. This will give you an incentive to complete work on time.

8. Avoid guilt. If you didn’t do something at the time you assigned yourself, try to reschedule it instead of feeling guilty. Guilt pangs are a waste of time.

9. Avoid thinking of work on weekends.

10. Eat light, especially lunch. This will ensure that you don’t get sleepy in the afternoon.

11. Multitask. Jobs that are not too critical and don’t require 100% concentration can be clubbed together –exercise while you catch up on your favorite program, or cut coupons while talking on the telephone. At the office, you can send routine emails while talking on the phone. Multitasking frees 30-60 minutes of time to be used later in the day.

12. Avoid perfection. You are only setting yourself up for defeat. When you try to bring perfection to difficult tasks, you will only end up avoiding them.

13. Work now, play later. It’s human nature to want to do the fun things first. Train yourself to complete the work at hand before you let your hair down.

14. Try and complete similar tasks in the same block of time. Does your job have you making a high volume of sales calls everyday? Try to make all your phone calls in the same time period. Avoid having to retrace your steps to perform a redundant task you could have done more productively at an earlier time.

15. Prepare. Have to reach office at 8 am? Doesn’t help if you get out of bed at 7:30 am. You must give yourself some buffer time to cover unexpected events – like a sudden traffic jam.

16. Get a good night’s sleep and plenty of exercise. This regimen will improve your focus and concentration, which in turn, helps you be more efficient and productive.

17. Don’t take work home and vice versa.

18. Track time. Keep a diary detailing all the tasks you perform in a week. At the end of the week, check the diary to see how much time was spent doing what. See if you can employ your time in a better manner.

19. Once a month, schedule a few hours to pay bills make necessary phone calls.

20. Take a time management course. Most of us could do with some professional guidance on how to optimize our time.

21. Take a break. Stress is a fact of modern work life. If you feel your stress levels have risen too high, take time off to let off the steam. Too much stress can derail your attempts at getting organized. You could exercise a bit, or even take a day off.

22. Write notes to yourself. This helps you stay on track and ensure that important work gets done.

23. Avoid nonessential tasks. You must consider your goals and schedule before you accept additional work.

Working with your Colleagues

24. Play time games. Games are fun and people love that element of competition. Set deadlines for tasks and see who delivers the best quality product/ service within the stipulated time.

25. Commend. Every time somebody completes work on time ensure that you show your appreciation. You could have an employee of the week contest where the employee who completes all tasks on time for the entire week is accorded recognition and praise.

26. Create a work chart for an entire week. This way everyone knows what they are doing tomorrow and don’t have to twiddle their thumbs and wait for instructions. Don’t bother with extremely detailed schedules – it’s a waste of time and can be confusing as well.

27. Discourage long telephone conversations. The office is meant for working, not making social phone calls to family, friends and acquaintances.

28. Make your office techno-savvy. Get the most up-to-date equipment to help you and your colleagues complete work faster. A small investment of $1,000-$1,500 in equipment can save you tens of thousands of dollars in staff time.

29. Get your colleagues to clean up and clear out the office on a monthly, quarterly or semi-annual basis. Go through and organize your papers, files and folders and throw away any unnecessary paperwork and correspondence.

30. Chatty colleagues not only disrupt their own schedules, but also prevent you from completing your task on time. Get them to correct their habit or red flag them when you are working on meeting deadlines.

31. Match tasks to capabilities. Each employee in your organization has certain innate talents. Tap them by ensuring that each person performs task that he/she is good at. Research shows that employees perform better when they are assigned tasks they enjoy doing.

32. Avoid unnecessary meetings. If something can be resolved without a meeting, do so. And where unavoidable, create a strict agenda for the meeting and stick to it.

33. Introduce the email culture. Avoid phone calls between colleagues. Wherever possible, ask your colleagues to contact you via e-mail. Ensure that the e-mail communication is clear, crisp and concise.

34. Standardize. Regular tasks like sales letter-writing can be standardized to avoid delay.

35. Encourage delegation. If there is some job that can be done by someone else, pass it on.

36. Encourage exercise. Ask your colleagues to take a 10 to 15-minute break during the day for some exercise. It’s best scheduled for the afternoon when people tend to get a bit drowsy. The exercise session will perk them up and keep them going for the rest of the day.

37. Ensure that your colleagues bring problems to you as soon as they detect them. The sooner the issue gets resolved, the faster the task gets completed.

Saving Time at Home

38. Start your day 15 to 30 minutes earlier. It may be difficult initially, but you’ll be gaining that much extra time in your day.

39. Set out your work clothes and pack your lunch at night.

40. Have kids? Teach them to clean up after themselves. Show your kids how to maintain their own rooms and reward them for doing so.

41. Share household responsibilities with your children and spouse. This will save time, reduce your workload and help your children develop a sense of responsibility.

42. Create a routine for the children – especially sleep time. This will give you free time at home to tie up all the loose ends.

43. Is your family just getting the hang of your time management schedule? Set a timer to go off when it’s time to switch tasks. This will help them stick to their respective schedules. They will also get an idea of how long it takes to complete each task.

44. Keep phone numbers, and other emergency information in an easy to find place, like the on the refrigerator, or near the phone. In case of emergency you will not have to waste time running around for information.

45. Limit grocery shopping to once a week.

46. Plan your weekly menu. Decide what to cook every day of the following week and shop accordingly. This can save a lot of time.

47. Cook big meals – stews, soups, roasts anything that can be had for more than a day.

48. Try not to compulsively clean. It is far more important to relax a bit each day than to live in an immaculate house.

49. Avoid unnecessary trips to the bank. You waste nearly 20 hours a year when you stop at the bank every two weeks to withdraw money. Save that time by withdrawing enough cash to last until you receive your next paycheck.

50. Get your own coffee. You waste precious time by stopping at the convenience store for coffee on your way to work. Brew your own while you’re getting dressed and save time and money.

51. Married or living in? Try doing things together. This not only brings back the spark into your relationship, it also helps you save time by completing tasks faster.

52. Modernize your home. Food processors, washing machines, dish washers, microwaves – use all of them to save time.

53. On the weekend, get your things ready for the next week. Make sure you have five/ six clean, pressed outfits for the upcoming week.

54. Avoid a huge wardrobe – choosing your work wear becomes very tough and time consuming. Try to limit yourself to three or four colors and ensure that the everything goes together. Keep your colors for the weekend.

55. Get organized. Create a place for everything and ensure that everyone in the family keeps things in their right places. This will save time that would otherwise be spent searching for something.

56. No emotional attachments to junk please. If you don’t need something, just get rid of it. It clears the clutter in your home and reduces the time required to clean up.

57. When you’re done washing your clothes take them directly from the dryer and hang them up immediately to minimize the amount of time you’ll have to spend ironing.

58. Say no. You don’t need to always be polite and politically correct. There are a lot of demands on your limited time, so avoid unnecessary wastes. For instance if an acquaintance wants you to attend a party with him/ her, and you don’t want to go, you must say no. You may hate having to turn down people – but realize that saying no frees up time for things that are more important.

59. Be organized. Keep your receipts and bills together. This saves a lot of time and effort when it’s time to file taxes.

60. Stock up on supplies. Keep certain basics such as stamps, envelopes, notepads and pens in your desk.

61. Don’t get discouraged if your time management system doesn’t work wonders immediately. It may require a little trial and error before you hit the right path.

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